Category Archives: fashion retail

A Pop-up revival in retail marketing – n°2

0a12719a9afee4890dd8842682a896cdThe pop-up phenomenon dates back 2004, when fashion brand Comme des Garcons opened a guerrilla store in Berlin, followed by a long list of known brands, such as ony Ericksson, Levi’s, Breil, Uniqlo or the most recent ones of Apple, Nokia, and Adidas Originals. (full article here)

Other interesting articles have been published last year such as: Oliva e Marino – The pop-up store of Pavesi, Barilla and H&M in the quicksand – A very short pop-up story.

Pop-up are still interesting as marketing tool?

Are they a sustainable business?

What is the difference between a pop-up store and a “movable structure” like a small truck selling food?

Can we still consider it a new trend?

What can be done next?

Well, you kind opinion is very much appreciate because I think that within the general economic crisis, we need to find a new way to engage with consumers and to be able to drive investment beyond the life span of the pop-up store. So, any idea?

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H&M in the quicksand – A very short pop-up story

When H&M unexpectedly opened a new store on the beach of Riccione (Rimini – Italy) I thought this was a smart marketing action. Then I started wondering if this could work.   Of course the store would have benefited from massive visibility, but was this enough?

The great adventure of the pop-up store only lasted one week. It seems that those in charge of developing the concept did not have all relevant licenses.

The Italian Guardia di Finanza sealed off the area and confiscated property.           Someone thinks H&M violated some provisions, while others state inspections were too severe. It seems evident to me that someone chose to turn a blind eye in order to authorize the opening of this beautiful pop-up store on the beach. 

I think that if some licenses were missing works could not have been authorized.  And I’m also convinced that if inspections were too severe the shop couldn’t have been inaugurated.

Do you want to know my opinion? I don’t care who is right or wrong, nor which business activities were damaged the most. What really infuriates me is that in order to place the new pop-up store several square metres of “dunes” were destroyed, thus damaging an enchanting protected area gathering fine sand and lush vegetation.

Just for another shop! And I’m saying this in a conflict of interest. This behaviour is really not acceptable, especially because H&M has always been involved in sustainability and conscious collection campaigns, we also spoke about.

I think everyone involved in this matter should deeply reflect on it. Don’t you think so?

Pimkie’s site documents changing color trends on city streets | VIDEO

Just as sites such as Brayola have used the crowds to help women find recommendations for bras, now a new site is providing hints at the most popular color choices in three European cities. The Pimkie Color Forecast analyzes webcam footage to provide infographics detailing current trends in Paris, Milan and Antwerp.

With the help of interactive artist and software developer Pedro Miguel Cruz, France-based fashion retailer Pimkie has set up webcams in the “most fashionable” areas of the three cities, the images from which are then put through a computer program. The program isolates the pixels that represent people by monitoring their motion over time – the environment stays still but people move across the image space. The color of these pixels is then logged and the data is organized and presented in an easy-to-understand way to visitors of the Color Forecast.

Users can watch the live feed, see the most popular shades at different times of the day, week or month (in bar chart or pie chart form), or check Pimkie’s clothes recommendations for each city based on its most popular color.

These recommendations can then be purchased through the Pimkie store. The video below explains more about the process behind the site:

The fashion industry is full of opinions on the latest trends, but the Color Forecast provides digestable information based on actual data from the street, as well as providing a unique way to engage customers for the brand. Retailers, could you take inspiration from Pimkie’s lead?

via Fashion site documents changing color trends on city streets | Springwise.

Now available for purchase on selected stores in Italy and
on our Facebook store!

We were amazed by the final result – and even though these ECOFFEE tShirts were meant to be a concept, we received so many requests from our customers and supporters so that we were “compelled” to create a limited edition, capsule collection to be sold in selected stores and on our Facebook store.

T-shirts are available in khaki and brown colors for both male and female sizes. We also printed a very small quantity on yellow t-shirts, just for kids!

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As we previously mentioned, for each t-shirt sale we will proceed 1 euro to  GreenAdsBlue.org Foundation, thus supporting  water sanitation projects in 10 Masai villages.

And we are glad we decided to do that!
Hurry up or you will miss the opportunity to buy one (or more) of these unique ECOFFEE tShirts!

Tailoring local retailing is the trend

The UK retail industry has been on the receiving end of a lot of criticism over recent years, particularly with regard to the role it has played in homogenising Britain’s high streets and creating a nation of so-called ‘identikit’ towns.

However, Marks & Spencer chief executive Marc Bolland announced last month that the retailer was on a mission to redesign its stores to suit local preferences, based on factors such as affluence, demographics, local competition as well as regional and ethnic differences, rather than on store size.

Tailoring ranges for local demographics is, of course, nothing new, particularly within grocery. Asda, for example, redesigned its Hounslow store in 2009 to better cater for the 70% of shoppers there who were of Asian, Mediterranean, Polish or Afro-Caribbean descent. More retailers are similarly starting to realise that catering for local tastes is critical for success.

James Daunt, incoming managing director of Waterstone’s, appointed after new owner Alexander Mamut bought the chain from HMV Group last month, has implied that the bookseller’s 300-strong chain will be adopting a tailored approach to retail, with ‘bookshops that mirror the tastes of customers as closely as possible’.

Ian Thurman, vice-president of location at data consultancy CACI, which has recently completed a store-segmentation project for footwear brand Clarks, says retailers are putting a bigger focus on locality – and not just in terms of the differences between big cities and the provinces.

‘The demographic differences between a Middlesbrough and a Guildford have become wider over the past few years, even for a retailer such as M&S,’ he says.

In its drive to better appeal to local preferences, M&S will use data from an array of sources, such as attitudinal insights gleaned from focus groups and information from online purchases, all of which will paint a much more detailed picture of who is buying what and where.

Bolland says work on segmentation has already been completed. ‘All stores have been grouped into clusters using several criteria including affluence and age,’ he said when M&S revealed its results last month. ‘In the autumn, we will begin to catalogue pilot stores according to one of these segments.’

Thurman says he is surprised that M&S did not adopt a segmentation approach years ago. Daunt, who joins Waterstone’s next month, is equally adamant that all retailers must prioritise the issue.

‘The best have done it,’ he says. ‘The degree to which they do so is dependent upon what they sell. Starbucks, with 50 products, can differentiate only so much; a supermarket with 20,000 lines much more; a bookshop that can draw from a million titles lies at the extreme end of this scale.’

Nonetheless, the fact that many retailers, including less salubrious ones, have made inroads into segmentation begs the question: why has it taken until now for M&S to adopt a store-segmentation approach?

A spokeswoman for the retailer says it is a case of evolution. ‘Over the past five to six years, we have a made a lot of progress in terms of the logistics of our stores,’ she says, referring to redesigned stores, new structures and layouts.

‘The new chief executive presented his business strategy in November. A big part of that focus is on UK operations, to look at stores and inject further inspiration into them. We’re not looking at ceilings and floors again, we’re looking at the way stores are shopped by customers.’

Beware bespoke

While creating tailored ranges for every store would appear to be the goal for retailers, Tim Greenhalgh, chief creative officer at retail consultancy Fitch, warns that ‘going local’ is not right for every brand.

‘Consumers don’t want everything to be local,’ he says. ‘People get quite excited about what the likes of Zara or Urban Outfitters have coming into their stores. The local thing does work particularly well when you touch people’s everyday lives.’

Mark Dickens, retail innovations consultant at customer communications specialist Wanda Communications, says that consumers should not expect to notice dramatic differences at their local M&S.

‘You might see changes, but they will be subtle,’ he says. ‘The trick is to ensure customers don’t notice. Put simply, customers aren’t interested in brand – they’re interested in buying stuff.’

And customers buying more stuff is what Bolland hopes will be the result of his strategy. If it is, and more retailers follow suit, could such moves reinvigorate the ailing high street?

‘Yes,’ says Daunt. ‘Nothing is more dull than the identikit parade of multiple retailers. Localism within these same retailers would reintroduce the sense of discovery that a diverse high street offers.’ (Source: Ben Bold for Marketingmagazine.co.uk)

Where are Retail’s Hottest Emerging Markets?

Wondering whether to open your new fashion store in China or in Brazil but you don’t have any clue? The annual A.T. Kerney’s Retail Index  provides you with a detailed list of the most emerging countries for apparel retail.

The A.T. Kearney Global Retail Development Index (GRDI)™ ranks the top 30 emerging countries for retail development and identifies windows of opportunity for global retailers to invest in developing markets. The GRDI is unique because it doesn’t just identify which markets are bigger or richer, but rather which markets are hotter and bursting with opportunity. The full annual report can be read at this link, but let’s take a quick look at what the report shows.

 

China ranks as the most attractive emerging market for apparel retailers according to a study by global management consulting firm A.T. Kearney. Its first place ranking was driven by the country’s large population and the growing disposable income of the middle class. With its compound annual growth rate of more than 20 percent in recent years, apparel retail in China has grown at a rapid pace, and this trend is expected to continue for the next five years.

China was followed in the ranking by two Middle East Countries, U.A.E. and Kuwait, then by Russia and Saudi Arabia.

The United Arab Emirates holds the second position in the 2011 Apparel Index, driven by a population with a high disposable income and immense fashion consciousness. The expatriate populace and tourism in particular are driving forces of consumption in this market. Additionally, the UAE is a regional commerce center in the Middle East, and is a preferred market for entering the Middle East as well as testing new products and retail formats.

Kuwait is ranked #3 in the Apparel Index. Key factors driving retail growth in Kuwait are a favorable long-term economic outlook, a sophisticated consumer base with high levels of disposable income and fashion awareness, more women entering the workforce, and a significant expansion in retail real estate. The gross leasable retail space in Kuwait has expanded from 345,000 square meters in 2006 to 1.15 million square meters in 2010.

The remaining top ten markets in the 2011 A.T. Kearney Retail Apparel Index are Russia, Saudi Arabia, India, Brazil, Turkey, Vietnam and Chile. (Source: A.T.Kerney)

Augmented Reality or Augmented Retail?

Is AR (Augmented Reality) in-store systems going to help retailers to boost sales? It would be interesting to know your opinion, in the meanwhile, watch these two interesting videos.

Kinetic Fitting Room by AR Room at the Topshop flagship store in Moscow

Cisco demo allowing shoppers to try on clothes via augmented reality, all enabled by interactive digital signage

New Terms of Engagement for Levi Strauss & Co. Global Supply Chain

Yesterday, Levi Strauss & Co.  announced a new Terms of Engagement for its global supply chain, moving beyond compliance to help improve the lives of workers in factories around the world. Under the new approach, LS&Co. will require contract factories to help make employees’ lives better by supporting programs for their workers that align with UN Millennium Development goals.

In a speech delivered today at the CERES annual conference, CEO and President John Anderson said: “We are proposing a new apparel industry standard of social, economic, and environmental sustainability that focuses on improving workers’ lives. If our ultimate goal is to improve not just factory conditions, but to make a material difference to the people and communities in our supply chain, then we need a more holistic approach and a more human perspective.”

The speech comes twenty years after Levi Strauss & Co. announced a Terms of Engagement that set a new standard of compliance for vendor factories in the apparel industry. The TOE required manufacturing factories to follow health, safety and environmental standards set by Levi Strauss & Co. This standard – considered pioneering at the time – rapidly became the norm for most companies with a global supply chain.

Anderson argued that companies need to do more to create progress and move the industry forward: “Compliance has us focused on two things: a legalistic standard of “do no harm” and factory-level monitoring and reporting,” said Anderson. “While we’ve made progress in a number of areas over twenty years, the hard truth is that we haven’t made enough progress on improving the everyday lives of the people who make our products.”

A New Terms of Engagement
The company’s new approach will focus on programs that align with the UN Millennium Development Goals http://www.un.org/millenniumgoals/ specifically: improving maternal and child health; combating HIV/AIDs, and other diseases; promoting gender equality and empowering women; eradicating extreme poverty and hunger; and ensuring environmental sustainability.

LS& Co. committed to a nine-month advisory process with NGOs, other brands, labor unions and suppliers around the world. At the end of the process, Levi Strauss & Co. will release a white paper for public comment and then will begin implementing the new terms of engagement with suppliers in May 2012.

The company argued that a new terms of engagement is not only the right thing to do, but is good for business: “We are sure that if companies focus not just on the minimum legal requirements, but on a broader vision of social, economic, and environmental sustainability, they will be rewarded,” said Anderson.

Levi Strauss & Co. is a participant in the CERES Investor Business Roundtable for a Sustainable Economy announced this morning. The company made the commitment as part of a keynote speech delivered at the 2011 CERES Conference. For more information about the Roundtable, visit: ceres.org.

For the full John Anderson speech and more background information, please visit:http://www.levistrauss.com/new-termsofengagement. (Source: CSRwire PR)

A Pop-up revival in retail marketing

Over the past 12 months, a growing number of brands has turned to pop-up activity to provide a burst of PR activity and another reason for consumers to interact with their brand – hopefully ensuring that the effect of these events are going to last even after the shutters come down. The last news about a pop-up store is related to Marni, the Italian fashion brand, located at the Ocean Centre in Hong Kong and featuring the whole Marni Edition.

The pop-up phenomenon dates back 2004, when fashion brand Comme des Garcons opened a guerrilla store in Berlin, followed by a long list of known brands, such as ony Ericksson, Levi’s, Breil, Uniqlo or the most recent ones of Apple, Nokia, and Adidas Originals.

The pop-up strategy allows brands to tap into new markets at low cost, as rents are cheap and the ‘concept store’ strategy creates a buzz without investing in advertising.

Even thought they are an excellent way to deliver a brand experience there is a question over their reach, as they engage only those consumers who actually visit. Jeremy Rucker, head of Hotel Retail, experiential agency RPM’s pop-up and retail division, says the growth of pop-up activity is partly in response to the levels of empty retail space on high streets. ‘With so many brands turning to online-only channels, pop-up activity helps bring excitement back to the high street,’ he adds.

The big question for brands is how to drive investment beyond the life span of the pop-up store and the PR generated at that time. ‘Data capture is fundamental, but creating engaging ways for the brand to interact with the consumer that can a develop a life of their own should be considered,’ says Owen Cato, creative director of retail agency Live & Breathe. ‘Extending activity in the pop-up store online and into social-media activity would work well.’

Claire Stokes, managing director of experiential agency The Circle Agency, adds: ‘Previously, when brands have talked about experiential, it has been all about being in the live space. Now it is about building new digital layers to ensure the halo effect of any given event stretches beyond just one single event.’ For example, when EA Games promoted its key Christmas video-game releases in shopping centres, it encouraged consumers to ‘check in’ to win titles. More than 3000 consumers took part, promoting the event far beyond the boundaries of the event venue.

However, industry experts warn against investing in digital at the expense of the core event. Trevor Hardy, founder of creative agency The Assembly, contends that pop-up activity should be viewed as another marketing channel. ‘The more sensory and multichannel the experience, the better it becomes,’ he adds. ‘The risk is that interactive and social media may dilute the experience – 100% of the efforts should be dedicated to ensuring the experience is the best it can be.’

However, the fact that even retail brands with a consistent high-street presence are turning to pop-up activity perhaps suggests that brands should be creating the excitement of a pop-up shop in their existing retail space every day. Hardy argues that this is not possible, as the ‘focus is on getting the maximum return per square foot’.

Caroline Wurfbain, client services director at experiential agency Jack Morton Worldwide, predicts that more brands will launch pop-up activity over the next 12 months. ‘The challenge is that if ideas don’t change, there is a risk that the market will become saturated and consumers will get bored,’ she adds.

Many of the most successful pop-up launches and events of recent years have not been the work of commercial brands, but independent chefs and artists. As a result, a raft of brands has attempted to mimic the halo effect of organic movements such as Hidden Kitchen, a private supper club that serves 16 people a seasonal 10-course tasting menu paired with wines. However, if these brands fail to offer consumers a compelling reason to interact with them, their experiential strategy risks being dangerously insubstantial (Source: Marketing Magazine)